Keeping the chain out of the dirt cannot be stressed enough. If the chips look more like sawdust or you're forcing the cut it's time to change or sharpen the chain.
I clear hiking trails which normally involves cutting trees laying on the ground. By watching the chips change color I can tell when I'm into the bark, meaning it's time to stop cutting. I've seen chains overheated by improper power sharpening so I'll stuck to my hand filing thank you.
And Oregon's website has an on-line technical section on sharpening and maintaining saw chain. Like others said, it depends on what you're cutting and what you happen upon while cutting air-good, nails-bad. I usually swap chains after two tanks, since they are usually dulling by this point. It is a lot quicker to touch up a chain grinder or file than to recover one that was rocked out or otherwise severly dulled.
Gas consumption seems to be a more accurate way to measure resharpening a chain. Two tanks is about what I get before a touch up. What would cause me not to be able to start a new discussion vs replying back? I feel it had to have a vacuum system to prime it. It gets Spooky when I see we are down to 2 original Neighbors that we joined in in homes built in in our block. I know you can hear the Engines Roaring and Smell the Fumes.
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The downside of using a grinder, is that it typically takes off WAY more material than sharpening with a file guide. This does get your cutters nice and sharp, but it also reduces the life of your chain.
When to sharpen with a grinder: With normal wear, you should be able to do 40 fuel-ups with your chainsaw e. Then have it professionally sharpened to remove hard-to-fix imperfections. So, after a few professional grindings, you should start thinking about just buying a new chain on your next visit. A sure-fire way to destroy a perfectly good chain, is to allow it to get rusty. This is probably one of the biggest causes of ruined chains.
With proper maintenance and storage. Before putting away your chainsaw, here are the 4 things you should do to prevent rust:. You should take off the face plate, and clean out the bar track, the chain, and the sprocket. You can learn the detailed steps for cleaning in this post about replacing a chainsaw chain.
After cleaning and putting everything back together, you should oil the chainsaw bar and chain. The best way to do this, is to put some bar and chain oil into the lubricant tank, and then simply start the chainsaw and run the chain for a few seconds. Chainsaws have a built in mechanism which draws in lubricant as the chain spins, and this is the best way to get it oiled before storing. Most chainsaws come with a scabbard e. A barn, garage, or shed is fine. As mentioned above, there are small lines stamped into chainsaw cutter and guides, which indicate how far it can be sharpened.
This can be very dangerous, so you should replace your chainsaw chain if you have reached the safety lines on the chain. If you hit rocks, dirt, ice, etc. You can often repair small chips in the blade edge through sharpening. You can not use a rusty chainsaw chain. If you get your chainsaw out of storage, only to realize that the chain has rusted, then you should replace it. The good news is that unlike most other power-cutting tools, you can sharpen a chainsaw to like-new condition in just a few minutes.
Examine the wood being expelled by the saw. A sharp chainsaw sprays out thin shavings. A dull saw spews out fine wood dust. Using a file to hand sharpen a dull saw chain might seem like a very slow way to go. But once you perfect the techniques described below, it actually goes surprisingly fast.
To sharpen these curved cutting edges use a matching-diameter round file. Also, notice that the tops of the cutting teeth are ground at alternating angles, meaning one tooth angles to the left, the next to the right. These pieces called "rakers" are slightly shorter in height than the cutting teeth. The guide serves two purposes: It provides a flat surface for resting the file on the saw chain, and it controls the depth that the file can cut. And stamped into the top surface of the guide are angled lines that correspond to the pitch—or cutting angle—of the saw chain teeth.
Before sharpening, you need two specifications: the diameter of the semi-circular cutting edges on the saw chain, and the pitch—or rake angle—of those cutting edges.
Select a round file that matches the diameter of the semi-circular edges on the cutting teeth. Loosen the thumbscrews on the sharpening guide and slide the round file beneath the two metal hold-down clamps. Tighten the screws to secure the file in the guide. Next, use an indelible marker to mark the first cutting tooth to be sharpened.
Sawchains feature both right and left cutters, alternating from one side of the sawchain to the other. To file the individual cutters, position yourself on one side of the saw bar and file the cutters on the opposite side of the sawchain.
When you finish with one side, move to other side of the saw bar and file the remaining cutters. A round file sharpens in one direction only—on the stroke away from you. To sharpen the cutting corner the spot on a cutter where the sharp top and side plates intersect , hold the file horizontally and follow the factory angle of the cutting corner as you lightly but firmly push the file.
Then lift the file up to return to the starting position and push it again. Use the same number of filing strokes, and the same degree of pressure, to file every cutter. It may take as few as two strokes per cutter to hone the cutting corner, but it could take more if the cutters are very dull.
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